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Post by TrapperTod on May 29, 2008 6:08:07 GMT -5
I am going through my traps now and getting them back in good shape. I am going to dip in F1, after that do I use just plain parrifin wax on my foot holds? I just dipped last year and did not wax, so this is another first for me.  |
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Post by Bottomline on May 29, 2008 8:10:34 GMT -5
That would probably work Tod. I would order some trap wax from a trap supply place. Lostyournoodle has some. Newt and Bob Jameson say you don't have to wax over formula One, but I would if they are for canines.
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Post by biscuit on May 29, 2008 8:35:43 GMT -5
Just my 2 cents, wax is not needed. F1 is fast and durable it lasts about 3weeks in water befor I started seeing rust. This was my first year using it but I love it, the nice part of it is everything is done cold. NO MORE BOILING!
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Post by mountainman on May 29, 2008 10:03:40 GMT -5
For mink traps (legholds) I'll try waxing over F1. I like the speed wax gives me because mink have fast reflexes. Another thing I'll try is not waxing the top of the jaws so the wax doesn't have to be scraped off the jaw face.
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Post by Ldsoldier on May 29, 2008 18:28:09 GMT -5
I'd still boil'em to clean'em. Then just dip'em the next day after the cool down.
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Post by lostyournoodle1 on May 29, 2008 20:49:22 GMT -5
WHAT TYPE OF TRAPS AND WHAT TYPE OF ANIMALS ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT TODD? DIFFERENT TYPES OF TRAPS CAN BE TREATED IN DIFFERENT WAYS( FOOT HOLDS, SC FOOT HOLD, BODY GRIPS, SNARES).
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Post by TrapperTod on May 30, 2008 6:13:44 GMT -5
I just dip my body grips, but I am referring to my footholds mainly for foxes,coons and cats. I used F1 only last year, but I was thinking of waxing for this year in addition to the F1
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Post by Bottomline on May 30, 2008 6:18:33 GMT -5
I boil all my canine traps in Logwood dye, and then wax them. Not saying F1 won't do the same, that's just what I do. I use FI on all water traps.
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Post by lostyournoodle1 on May 30, 2008 6:20:52 GMT -5
I PERSONALLY DON'T THINK THE WAX IS NECESSARY ON YOUR FOOTHOLDS, UNLESS YOUR COON SETS ARE SUBMERGED. I USUALLY BOIL AND DYE WITH LOGWOOD, THIS HAS WORKED GREAT FORME, BUT I AM GOING TO TRY THE F1 AS SOON AS I GET IT IN. I HAVE HEARD GOOD THINGS ABOUT THIS STUFF.
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Post by biscuit on May 30, 2008 8:26:52 GMT -5
TRAPPER TOD,
Did you experience any rusting on your traps?
If so wax, but if not, I feel that waxing is just an added step. But what do I know?
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Post by TrapperTod on May 30, 2008 9:39:50 GMT -5
With the F1 I had some slight rusting in places, but it was where the F1 had gotten scratched off
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Post by biscuit on May 30, 2008 10:55:13 GMT -5
Let me say that I am no expert, I to used F1 last year for the first time with rust only in places that got scratched. I had not even thought about waxing an F1 dipped trap, what would be the benifit?
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Post by mountainman on May 30, 2008 17:52:20 GMT -5
Wax adds a certain amount of protection from corrosion and reduces friction between moving parts on a trap. The result is a longer lasting, faster working trap. If you trap in salt water or use some type of salt for antifreeze traps can get rusted pretty badly. My main reason for wanting to try waxing over F1 is for faster lockdown time. Some animals have fast reflexes. A slow lockdown time can result in toe holds or misses.
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Post by Bottomline on May 30, 2008 19:40:11 GMT -5
Wax adds a certain amount of protection from corrosion and reduces friction between moving parts on a trap. The result is a longer lasting, faster working trap. If you trap in salt water or use some type of salt for antifreeze traps can get rusted pretty badly. My main reason for wanting to try waxing over F1 is for faster lockdown time. Some animals have fast reflexes. A slow lockdown time can result in toe holds or misses. Great explaination Mountainman. I like wax because I feel it protects the treatment I put on my traps, and it speeds the trap up. |
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